Moles are small, insect-eating mammals that are highly specialized for life underground. Moles have very small eyes, no external ears, a hairless, pointed snout, and forefeet that are enlarged and turned outward for digging in the soil. The two most common species in New York State are the star-nosed mole (Condylura cristata), and the hairy-tailed mole (Parascalops breweri). The eastern mole (Scalopus aquaticus) occurs in the lower Hudson River Valley and Long Island. All three species have short, thick, dark velvety fur that lies flat in either direction as the mole makes its way through a burrow system. The eastern mole grows to be up to 6 1/2 inches long and has a naked tail. The hairy-tailed mole grows to be up to 5 1/2 inches long and has a short, hairy tail. The star-nosed mole reaches 5 inches in length, and has a nose surrounded by 22 small, fingerlike projections around its nose, which readily distinguishes it from other moles. These last two species are found throughout the state, and all moles are legally classified as unprotected animals in New York State.

8.1.1 General Biology and Food Habits

Moles spend most of their lives within extensive systems of underground tunnels where a circular nest chamber is excavated and lined with leaves and grass. They produce a single litter of three to seven young each year in April or May after a gestation period of about 42 days. Young moles leave the nest in four to five weeks.

Moles are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insect larvae (including grubs), earthworms, or other invertebrates encountered while digging in the soil. They consume from 70 to 100 percent of their body weight each day in order to supply their energy demands. Therefore, moles can be very beneficial mammals, as they remove many damaging insects and grubs from lawns and gardens. Occasionally, moles may feed on seeds, roots or bulbs.

Moles prefer loose, moist soil in fields and woods shaded by vegetation. Hairy-tailed moles tend to occupy fairly well-drained but moist sandy loam, whereas star-nosed moles tend to occur in low, wet ground especially near open water. Moles have two types of burrow systems, shallow and deep. Deep systems are fairly permanent, located 6-24 inches below the surface, and are used for cover and for raising young. Shallow systems are more temporary and are used as runways while foraging just below the soil surface.

Burrowing moles occasionally damages lawns, gardens and golf greens, uprooting plants as they tunnel through the soil in search of food. Moles can leave volcano-shaped hills of soil that are pushed up from their deep tunnels. Surface ridges in the soil also indicate mole activity.

8.1.2 Population Control

Because moles are not prolific breeders and do not occur in high population densities, removing just one or two moles will often solve damage problems. The best time to conduct mole control is in the spring and fall when soil moisture levels are higher but the ground is not frozen. The most effective way to control mole damage is to use special body-gripping, scissor-jawed, or harpoon mole traps designed to kill moles as they move through their tunnels. Mole traps of several types can be purchased in garden or farm-supply stores.

Before setting a trap, locate a surface tunnel that appears to be active. Depress part of the tunnel with your foot and return the following day. If the tunnel has been repaired, then it is an active tunnel and a suitable place to set a trap. If the tunnel has not been repaired then it is probably not active. Once you have found a suitable location, depress a portion of the tunnel with your foot again and set the trap over the depressed area. As the mole moves through the tunnel it will push upward on the depressed tunnel roof and trip the trigger of the trap. Hairy-tailed and star-nosed moles may have sub-surfaces tunnels, and traps may need to be placed below ground surface level.

8.1.3 Toxicants

A number of different toxicants (Table 8.1.1) are available commercially and legally registered for use against moles in New York State. The active ingredient in most of these products is zinc phosphide, a restricted use pesticide that may be purchased and used only by certified pesticide applicators. Zinc phosphide baits often are ineffective because of the difficulty of getting moles to feed on baits rather than the invertebrates that they prefer. Always check the label on any pesticide to make sure it is registered for use on lawns, golf courses, or other turf areas.

8.1.4 Cultural Practices

Use of insecticides on lawns to reduce the food supply of moles is often touted as a remedy for mole damage. Although insecticides may reduce the food supply in light, sandy soils, they will have little effect in heavy clay soils. In addition, treatment of a single lawn or small area will be ineffective, as moles may still burrow through the treated area in search of food. Moles may also move into the area from adjacent untreated areas. Studies indicate that routine use of insecticides on lawns for "prevention" purposes kills off predator insects that keep lawn pests under control naturally, and should be avoided.

Table 8.1.1. Example toxicants and repellents registered in NYS for controlling mole damage to turfgrass.
Product Name	EPA Registration No.	Active Ingredient
Agway Mole Control	4-285-7138	2% Zinc phosphide
Bonide Moletox II	4-285	2% Zinc phosphide
Gordon’s Mole Killer Pellets	12455-30-33955	2% Zinc phosphide
Mole Nots	358-165	2% Zinc phosphide
Prozap Mole Pelleted Bait	61282-50	2% Zinc phosphide
Sweeney’s Poison Peanuts Mole Bait	30-25	2% Zinc phosphide
*Talpirid	12455-101	0.02% Bromethalin

8.2 Striped Skunks

The striped skunk (Mephitis mephitis) is a member of the weasel family (Mustelidae), well-known for the potent, musky odor it emits from its anal glands as a defense. The size of a large house cat, the skunk is jet black in color with a prominent white stripe that begins at the back of the head and splits into two lateral stripes that run down the back and sometimes onto the tail. Its body is stout, with a triangular head, round ears, and a long bushy tail that accounts for almost half its body length (20-30 inches). The skunk provides ecological and economic benefits to us because they eat rodents and insects.

Skunks are protected furbearers in New York and there are established hunting and trapping seasons. A license is required before trapping skunks unless they are causing damage or have become a nuisance. Current New York State Environmental Conservation Law (Section 11-0523) states that skunks injuring property, or are a nuisance, may be taken at any time in any manner. Any skunks taken under these laws and outside the open season must be immediately buried or cremated or released alive somewhere on the property. Licensed nuisance wildlife control operators may transport wildlife off of the property but do so for a fee. Contact your local Department of Environmental Conservation office for the name of a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator in your area.

When shooting or trapping to manage skunk problems, you must follow local ordinances, so it is best to consult with local law enforcement authorities or regional Department of Environmental Conservation offices if you have questions regarding specific localities.

8.2.1 General Biology and Food Habits

Skunks mate in late February through late March and, after a gestation period of 62 to 75 days, give birth to four to six young in May or early June. Young skunks begin to walk when they are five weeks old and are completely weaned by two months. At this age, they begin leaving the den to accompany their mother on hunting trips. By the time they are three months old, the young are independent. Musk is present in skunks at birth. However, young skunks cannot raise their tails and eject it until they are three weeks old.

Skunks are mild-mannered, non-aggressive animals with poor sight, hearing and sense of smell. They will often ignore intruders even in close proximity unless disturbed. When cornered or closely pursued they will face the intruder, arch their backs, raise their tails, stamp the ground with their feet, and shuffle backwards. Just before spraying the skunk bends into a u-shape so that both head- and tail-ends face the intended target. The musk is released as either a fine spray or as a stream of drops and can reach distances up to 16 feet.

In winter skunks do not truly hibernate, but they become inactive, falling into a deep sleep for long periods (up to six weeks) during the winter. They do emerge periodically during winter when there is a break in cold weather. Skunks may lose up to 38% of their body weight during the winter. In the wild, skunks live only about two years.

The striped skunk prefers clearings, cropland, pastures, and other types of open lands bordering wooded or brushy areas. Skunks are nocturnal and spend their nights searching for food along woodland, brushland or wetland borders, along fencerows or wooded ravines, or near stream edges. During the day skunks den in abandoned woodchuck or fox burrows, culverts or hollow logs, or under lumber piles, porches, sheds and other outbuildings. Although skunks are not sociable animals, in the winter for warmth two to seven females may den with one male.

Skunks remain within a small area for most of their lives, usually within 1 mile of their den. However, male skunks may travel greater distances during the breeding season.

Skunks are omnivorous and have a highly variable diet that changes throughout the seasons. Foods include plants, berries, insects, crustaceans, small mammals, birds, eggs, amphibians, fish, and carrion. Like many other animals, skunks are opportunists, eating garbage and pet food left outdoors in urban and suburban areas.

8.2.2 Description of Damage

Most people fear skunks because of their nauseating odor. The odor can be experienced when a skunk takes up residence under building foundations, under porches or outbuildings, or in someone's yard. However, skunks will not spray unless they feel threatened. When confronting a skunk, avoid loud noises and quick movements. Back away slowly and quietly to avoid getting sprayed.

In addition to odor concerns, skunks cause other types of damage. Skunks may damage turf in yards and golf courses when they dig for grubs, leaving small upturned patches of sod and 3-4 inch funnel-like holes dug into the soil. Occasionally, skunks will dig up and consume hives of ground-nesting bees. Most damage occurs in late spring and early summer when the soil is moist.

8.2.3 Population Reductions

Live traps (10 x 10 x 30 inches in size) baited with sardines, fish-flavored cat food, or peanut butter can be set near the den entrance to capture skunks. Although skunks can be captured using live traps, most homeowners do not want to assume the risk of being sprayed that comes with close contact with a skunk. Because New York Environmental Conservation Law prohibits anyone except nuisance wildlife control operators or wildlife rehabilitators from transporting live-captured animals, the landowner must euthanize skunks captured on his or her property or release them alive elsewhere on the property. To avoid the risk of being sprayed, contact a professional to handle your skunk problems.

8.2.4 Pesticides

No toxicants, fumigants or repellents are currently registered in New York State for skunk control.

8.2.5 Cultural Practices

You can take several simple steps to minimize the attractiveness of your property to skunks. Remove obvious sources of food or shelter. Lumber and debris piles may encourage skunks to use an area. Avoid leaving pet food outside, and store garbage in metal or plastic containers with tight-fitting lids. Cover compost piles to reduce their attractiveness to skunks and prevent skunk feces from entering the compost. Skunks are often attracted to rodents living in barns, sheds, garages and other areas. Reducing rodent populations can eliminate this attraction. Clean up spilled seed around bird feeders that may attract rodents and skunks.

8.2.6 Health Concerns

Skunks are an important rabies vector in North America. Rabies is a deadly disease caused by a virus that attacks the nervous system. Animals most often infected include raccoons, skunks, foxes, and bats. The virus is present in the saliva and nervous tissue of a rabid animal. Be particularly cautious of animals that act strangely, especially those that are unusually tame, aggressive, or appear to be paralyzed. Be suspicious of daytime activity in skunks, which are usually most active at night.

If you or someone you know is bitten or scratched by a skunk, wash the wound thoroughly with soap and water and contact your physician immediately. Rabies post-exposure vaccinations may be necessary. Consult with your county health department, the NYS Bureau of Communicable Disease Control (518-474-3186), or during evenings and weekends, the NYS Department of Health duty officer (518-465-9720) for additional information.

8.3 Canada Geese

Canada geese are a valuable natural resource that provides recreation and enjoyment to bird watchers, hunters, and the public. In recent years, flocks of local-nesting or “resident” geese have become year-round inhabitants of our parks, waterways, residential areas, and golf courses, where they can cause significant problems.

In suburban areas throughout New York State, expanses of short grass, abundant lakes and ponds, lack of natural predators, limited hunting, and supplemental feeding have created an explosion in resident goose numbers. While most people find a few geese acceptable, problems develop as local flocks grow and the droppings become excessive (a goose produces a pound of droppings per day). Problems include over-grazed lawns, accumulations of droppings and feathers on play areas and walkways, nutrient loading to ponds, public health concerns at beaches and drinking water supplies, aggressive behavior by nesting birds, and safety hazards near roads and airports.

All Canada geese, including resident flocks, are protected by Federal and State laws and regulations. In New York, management responsibility for Canada geese is shared by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), and the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). It is illegal to hunt, kill, sell, purchase, or possess migratory birds or their parts (feathers, nests, eggs, etc.) except as permitted by regulations adopted by USFWS and DEC.

8.3.1 Population Growth

In the early 1900s, only a handful of Canada geese nested in the wild in New York State. These geese were descendants of captive birds released by private individuals in the Lower Hudson Valley and on Long Island. Local flocks grew rapidly and spread to other areas. During the 1950s and 1960s, game farm geese were released by the State Conservation Department on wildlife management areas north and west of Albany. By the mid 1990s, the New York State population had grown to more than 120,000 birds, with nesting documented all across the state. The estimated number of geese breeding in New York doubled between 1989 and 1998.

8.3.2 Goose Biology

Resident geese are long-lived in suburban areas. Some will live more than 20 years. Most geese begin breeding when they are 2-3 years old and they nest every year for the rest of their lives. They mate for life, but if one member of a pair dies, the other will mate again. Geese lay an average of 5 eggs per nest, and half will hatch and become free-flying birds in the fall. A female goose may produce more than 50 young over her lifetime.

The annual life cycle for geese begins in late winter when adult pairs return to nesting areas in late February or March, as soon as waters open up. Egg laying and incubation generally extend through April, with the peak of hatching in late April or early May, depending on location in the state. Geese will aggressively defend their nests, and may attack if approached. Non-breeding geese often remain nearby in feeding flocks during the nesting season. After hatching, goose families may move considerable distances from nesting areas to brood-rearing areas, appearing suddenly “out of nowhere” at ponds bordered by lawns.

After nesting, geese undergo an annual molt, a 4-5 week flightless period when they shed and re-grow their outer wing feathers. Molting occurs between mid-June and late July, and the birds resume flight in August. During the molt, geese congregate at ponds or lakes that provide a safe place to rest, feed and escape danger. Severe problems often occur at this time of year because the geese concentrate on lawns next to water. Some geese without young travel hundreds of miles to favored molting areas. These local migrations account for the disappearance or arrival of some local goose flocks in early June.

After the molt and through the fall, geese gradually increase the distance of their feeding flights and are more likely to be found away from water. Large resident flocks, sometimes joined by migrant geese in October, may feed on athletic fields and other large lawns during the day, and return to larger lakes and ponds to roost at night. This continues until ice or snow eliminates feeding areas and forces birds to other open water areas nearby or to the south, where they remain until milder weather returns and nesting areas open up.

“Resident” geese, as their name implies, spend most of their lives in one area, although some travel hundreds of miles to wintering areas. Resident geese are distinct from the migratory populations that breed in northern Canada. Banding studies have shown that resident geese are not simply migrant geese that stopped flying north to breed. In fact, Canada geese have a strong tendency to return to where they were born and use the same nesting and feeding sites year after year. This makes it hard to eliminate geese once they become settled in a local area.

8.3.3 Discouraging Geese

There are many ways to discourage Canada geese from settling in your area. No single technique is universally effective and socially acceptable. Persistent application of a combination of methods is usually necessary and yields the best results.

Goose problems in suburban areas are especially difficult because birds are not afraid of people and may become accustomed to scaring techniques. Also, some techniques are not compatible with desired uses of suburban properties. For example, loud noisemakers in residential areas, putting grid wires over swimming areas, or letting grass grow tall on athletic fields, are not practical remedies in those situations. But don’t rule out any technique that might be feasible. Dogs under strict supervision can safely be used in parks and schools, and controlled hunting has been successfully used at some golf courses.

Initiate control measures as soon as you notice geese in your area and be persistent. Once geese settle in a particular location, they will be more tolerant of disturbances and be difficult to disperse. No method works well with just a few attempts, and a comprehensive, long-term strategy is usually needed. Control measures work in various ways. Some reduce the biological capacity of an area to support geese by reducing availability of food or habitat. Other methods disperse geese to other sites where, hopefully, they are of less concern. Some techniques reduce the actual number of geese to a level that people can tolerate (“social carrying capacity”). Control techniques described here include those that have the best chance for success based on past experience.

8.3.4 Discontinue Feeding

Although many people enjoy feeding waterfowl in parks and on private property, this often contributes to goose problems. Feeding may cause large numbers of geese to congregate in unnatural concentrations. Well-fed domestic waterfowl often act as decoys, attracting wild birds to a site. Feeding usually occurs in the most accessible areas, making a mess of heavily used lawns, walkways, roads, and parking areas. Supplemental feeding also teaches geese to be unafraid of people, making non-lethal control measures less effective. Feeding may be unhealthy for the birds too, especially if bread or popcorn becomes a large part of their diet. Once feeding is discontinued, geese will disperse and revert to higher quality natural foods. Geese that depend on human handouts are also less likely to migrate when severe winter weather arrives, and are more vulnerable to disease.

Supplemental feeding should be stopped as a first step in any control program. Some success in reducing goose feeding may be achieved through simple public education, such as posting of signs. Further reduction of feeding may require adoption and enforcement of local ordinances with penalties such as fines or “community service” (cleaning up droppings, for example) for violations.

8.3.5 Allow Hunting

Hunting in suburban areas is often limited by lack of open spaces and local ordinances prohibiting discharge of firearms. Where feasible, however, hunting can help slow the growth of resident goose flocks. Hunting removes some birds and discourages others from returning to problem areas. It also increases the effectiveness of noisemakers, because geese will learn that loud noises may be a real threat to their survival.

Canada goose hunting is permitted in most areas of New York State during September, when very few migratory geese from Canada are present. Hunting is also allowed in some areas later in fall and winter, but regulations tend to be more restrictive to protect migratory geese that may be in the state at that time.

To hunt waterfowl, a person must have a New York State hunting license (which requires a hunter safety course), a federal Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp, and be registered in New York’s Harvest Information Program. Hunters should check local laws regarding discharge of firearms. Landowners concerned about potential conflicts can easily limit the number of hunters and times they allow hunting on their property. For more information about goose hunting regulations or setting up a controlled hunt, contact DEC.

8.3.6 Modify Habitat

Geese are grazing birds that prefer short, green grass or other herbaceous vegetation for feeding. Well-manicured lawns and newly seeded areas provide excellent habitat for these grazing birds. Wherever possible, let grass or other vegetation grow to its full height (10-14") around water bodies so that it is less attractive to geese. In time, geese may stop feeding in those areas. Instead of grass, plant or encourage native shrubs or less palatable ground cover, such as ivy, pachysandra, or junipers, around the shoreline of ponds and along walkways where geese are a problem. You can also plant grass species that are less palatable to geese, including some that go dormant in the winter. Geese tend to prefer Kentucky bluegrass, and are less attracted to fescue. Also, minimize use of lawn fertilizers to reduce the nutritional value of grass to the birds.

It is very difficult to eliminate goose nesting habitat. Geese rarely nest in open lawns where they feed. Typically, they build nests on the ground close to water, hidden by vegetation. However, geese are very adaptable and nest in a variety of habitats, including woodlands, flower gardens, and rooftops. Islands and peninsulas are preferred nesting sites, and often support many more nesting geese than mainland shorelines. Avoid creating such features during landscaping of ponds in problem areas. Local zoning regulations may be a way to discourage habitat developments that favor geese.

8.3.7 Install Low Wires over Ponds

Geese normally rest on open water or along shorelines to feel safe from predators. They also tend to land and take off from open water when feeding on adjacent lawns. Where practical, construct a system of suspended wires over the water to deny the birds’ access to such areas. Single strands of #14 wire or 80-100 pound test monofilament line can be arranged in a grid with 10-15 feet between wires. Each wire must be secured so that it remains 12-18" above the water surface and perimeter fencing may be needed to keep geese from walking under the grid. To reduce the risk of birds flying into the wires, attach brightly colored rope, flagging or other markers to make them more visible.

Wire systems are not practical for ponds used for swimming, fishing, or other recreation. However, golf course ponds, reflecting pools, wastewater ponds, and newly seeded lawns with limited public access, may be suitable. Human disturbance (vandalism) of grid wires may be a problem in public areas.

8.3.8 Install Fencing during the Molting Period

Fencing or other physical barriers can be effective where geese tend to land on water and walk up onto adjacent lawns to feed or rest. Fencing works best during the summer molt (mid-June to mid-July), when geese are unable to fly and must walk between feeding and resting areas. In these situations, fencing or other physical barriers installed close to the water’s edge are effective ways to control goose movements. Fences must completely enclose the site to be effective. Fencing may also be used to block aggressive birds on nests near buildings or walkways. Although birds can get around most fencing, direct attacks may be prevented. Fencing around large open areas, such as athletic fields or ponds, has little effect on free-flying birds.

Goose control fences should be at least 30" tall (48-60" to block aggressive birds) and solidly constructed. Welded wire garden fencing (2" x 4" mesh) is durable and will last years. Less expensive plastic or nylon netting is effective, but will have to be replaced more often. Fences may be beautified or hidden by planting shrubs close by. Snow fencing or erosion control fabric may be used as a temporary barrier to molting geese.

8.3.9 Use Visual Scaring Devices

Various materials may be used to create a visual image that geese will avoid, especially if they are not already established on a site, such as newly seeded areas. Geese are normally reluctant to linger beneath an object hovering over head. However, visual scaring devices are not likely to be effective on suburban lawns where trees or other overhead objects exist and where geese have been feeding for years.

One very effective visual deterrent for geese is Mylar tape that reflects sunlight to produce a flashing effect. When a breeze causes the tape to move, it pulsates and produces a humming sound that repels birds. This product comes in 1/2"-6"widths. To discourage geese from walking up onto lawns from water, string the tape along the water’s edge. To ensure maximum reflection and noise production, leave some slack in the tape and twist the material as you string it from stake to stake.

Another visual scaring technique is the placement of flagging or balloons on poles (6' or taller) or other objects in and around an area to be protected. Flagging can be made of 3-6' strips of 1" colored plastic tape or 2' x 2' pieces of orange construction flagging. Bird-scaring balloons, 30" diameter, with large eye-spots and helium filled, are sold at some garden or party supply stores. Numerous flags or balloons may be needed to protect each acre of open lawn. These materials should be located where they will not become entangled in tree branches or power lines. They also may be subject to theft or vandalism in areas open to the public. If geese become acclimated, frequent relocation of the materials is recommended. For small ponds, remote control boats can be used to repel geese, and may be practical if local hobbyists are willing to help out.

8.3.10 Use Noisemakers

Geese may be discouraged from an area through the use of various noisemakers or pyrotechnics. Shell crackers are special shells fired from a 12-gauge shotgun that project a firecracker up to 100 yards. Other devices, such as screamer sirens, bird-bangers, and whistle bombs, are fired into the air from a hand-held starter pistol or flare pistol. These devices generally have a range of 25-30 yards.

Noisemakers work best as preventive measures before geese establish a habit of using an area and where the birds are too confined to simply move away from the noise. At sites with a history of frequent use by geese and people, the birds may become acclimated in 1-2 weeks. Noise devices are often not effective for moving nesting geese.

Before using any of these techniques, check with local law enforcement agencies concerning noise control ordinances, fire safety codes, or restrictions on possession and discharge of firearms. Obtain special permits if necessary. In some areas, starter pistols are considered a handgun, and their possession and use may be regulated. Federal and State permits are not necessary to harass geese with these techniques, as long as the birds are not physically harmed.

Where discharge of firearms is allowed, occasional shooting of geese can increase the effectiveness of noisemakers, as geese associate the sound with a real threat. Special Federal and State permits are needed to shoot geese except during established hunting seasons.

8.3.11 Apply Repellents

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and DEC have approved the use of several goose repellent on lawns (Table 8.3.1). Geese will avoid feeding on treated lawns because they dislike the taste. However, geese may still walk across treated areas to get to adjacent untreated areas. The active ingredients include methyl anthranilate (MA) or anthraquinone. These materials are available at some garden supply centers and costs about $125 per acre per application. Several applications per year are usually necessary. Therefore, it is most practical and cost-effective for only small areas of lawn. For best results, follow directions on product labels; if too dilute, it won’t work, if too concentrated, it can kill the grass. Repellents may not be used in ponds or wetlands in New York State, and a DEC Article 24 (Freshwater Wetland) permit is needed to apply it within 100 feet of a regulated wetland.

Table 8.3.1. Repellents registered in NYS for controlling goose damage to turfgrass.
Product Name	EPA Registration No.	Active Ingredient
No Goose Zone	58035-9-54705	14.5% Methyl anthranilate
Liquid Fence Goose Repellent	72041-2	20.7% Methyl anthranilate
*Sepro Flight Control Plus	69969-1-67690	50% Anthraquinone

8.3.12 Use Dogs to Chase Geese

Dogs trained to chase but not harm geese have been used effectively to disperse geese from golf courses, parks, athletic fields and corporate properties. Border collies or other breeds with herding instincts tend to work best. The dogs must be closely supervised during this activity. Except where permitted, compliance with local leash laws or park regulations is still required. Initially, chasing must be done several times per day for several weeks, after which less frequent but regular patrols will be needed. Geese will not become acclimated to the threat of being chased by dogs.

This method is most practical where the dog and handler are on-site at all times, or where daily service (as needed) is available from private handlers. Another approach is to allow dogs to roam freely in a fenced (above ground or “invisible” dog fence) area that is not open to the public, but this may be less effective. Dogs generally should not be used when geese are nesting or unable to fly, such as during the molt or when goslings are present. Use of dogs may not be practical near busy roads or where a property is divided into many small sections by fences, buildings, or other barriers. Also, dogs can not easily repel geese from large water areas, but may be able to keep geese off shoreline lawns or beaches. Although this technique has proven effective, it is often expensive and labor intensive.

8.3.13 Laser Lights

Specially designed high-intensity lasers have been developed for bird control (e.g., Avian Dissuader^TM). These lights will disrupt roosting geese on ponds during the night. As for other scare devices, repeated use is necessary. It is very difficult to break the site fidelity of roosting geese. Most flocks can find safe havens where it is not possible to haze or scare the geese. Consequently, flocks will move back to favorite roosting ponds once the hazing activity has stopped.

8.3.14 Control Goose Nesting

Geese usually return in spring (late March) to the area where they hatched or where they nested previously. Over time, this results in increasing numbers of geese in areas that once had just a few birds. Local population growth may be controlled by preventing geese from nesting successfully. Although it is difficult to eliminate nesting habitat, harassment in early spring may prevent geese from nesting on a particular site. However, they may still nest nearby where they are not subject to harassment.

If nest prevention fails, treating the eggs to prevent hatching is an option. This can be done by puncturing, shaking, freezing or applying corn oil to all of the eggs in a nest. The female goose will continue incubating the eggs until the nesting season is over. If the nest is simply destroyed, or the eggs removed, the female may re-nest and lay new eggs. Federal and state permits are required to disrupt goose eggs or nests. Additional information on egg treatment will be sent to individuals who obtain a USFWS permit to control goose nesting on their property. To treat eggs with corn oil in New York State, the person must be a certified pesticide applicator, in addition to having the necessary state and federal permits.

Egg treatment helps in several ways. First, it directly reduces the number of geese that will be present on a site later in the year. Second, geese without young will be more easily repelled from a site after the nesting season. Finally, if conducted on a large enough scale (throughout a town), it can help slow the growth of a local goose population, and over time lead to stable or declining numbers. Egg treatment may be necessary for 5-10 years before effects on goose numbers are evident.

One fertility control chemical (nicarbizin; *OvoControl^TM) has been approved by US-EPA. This material requires repeated feeding of nesting geese during the egg-laying period. Additional field trials and applications are needed to determine the utility of this product.

8.3.15 Capture and Remove Geese

An effective method of relief for sites with problems during the summer, or to help reduce year-round goose numbers in an area, is capture and removal of geese. Federal and state permits are required for this activity. Geese are easy to capture during the molt by simply herding them into holding pens.

In large areas, it may be necessary to remove geese for several years to get maximum results. After geese are removed, the capture site will have substantially fewer geese for the rest of the summer or longer. Over time, geese from surrounding areas may move in if preventive measures are not in place.

Geese removed from problem areas can be processed and donated to charities for use as food. If properly handled by a licensed poultry processor, goose meat is a healthy and well received source of food for needy people. However, this method is very controversial. Media interest, protests and legal challenges from animal rights activists can be expected.

Relocation of geese is not an option at this time, and moving geese is less effective than permanent removal. Banding studies have shown that many relocated geese return to their initial capture locations by the following summer. Geese taken short distances (less than 50 miles) may return soon after they are able to fly. Adult geese are most likely to return, whereas goslings moved without parent birds will often join a local flock and remain in the release area. Birds that don’t return may seek out areas similar to where they were captured, and may cause problems there too. Many wildlife and animal health professionals are concerned that relocating problem wildlife increases the risk that diseases may be spread to wildlife or domestic stock in other areas.

8.3.16 Not Recommended

For almost every method that has been tried to alleviate problems caused by geese, there has been success and failure. However, some methods were not recommended in this document for various reasons. These include: use of swans (real ones create other problems; fake ones don’t work); bird distress calls (effective for some bird species, but not proven for geese); scarecrows or dead goose decoys (ineffective for resident geese); use of trained birds of prey to chase geese (labor-intensive, generally not available); sterilization (very labor-intensive for surgery); fountains or aerators in ponds (not effective, may even attract geese); introduction of predators (already present where habitat is suitable, but none take only geese); disease (impossible to control and protect other animals); and use of poisons (illegal).

8.3.17 “Community-based” Goose Management

Simply chasing geese from one place to another does not address the underlying problem of too many geese, and may simply transfer the problem from one property owner to another. This is not an effective strategy for communities with widespread goose problems. Therefore, Cornell Cooperative Extension, DEC, and USDA encourage local governments and landowners to work together to implement comprehensive management programs that include a variety of techniques. Control measures will be most effective if coordinated among nearby sites in a community.

While some measures can be tried at little or no cost, others are more costly and beyond the means of some property owners. In these instances, local governments may want to sponsor goose control throughout a community, similar to other animal control work. This could include posting “no feeding” areas, installing fences, spraying repellent, handling dogs, egg treatment, and removal of geese. This way, the cost of goose management would be shared by all the residents of a community, including those who benefit from the geese as well as those who may experience problems. Although Federal and State agencies can provide technical advice, they do not have the resources to provide goose control programs at the local level.

Canadian Geese

8.3.18 Permits

Federal and State permits are required to capture, handle, or kill Canada geese, or to disturb their nests or eggs. Permits to kill geese are not issued unless USDA has determined that other measures were not practical or effective. Permits are issued by:

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Permit Office,

P.O. Box 779, Hadley, MA 01035-0779, phone

(413) 253-8643.

A landowner can chase or disperse geese from his or her property at any time without a permit as long as the birds are not physically harmed. Once a federal permit is issued for any goose control activities, the landowner must also obtain a special permit from DEC. USFWS will send DEC copies of federal permits they issue, so application to DEC is automatic. State permits are issued by:

Special Licenses Unit

NYSDEC, Division of Fish, Wildlife and Marine Resources

625 Broadway 5th Floor

Albany, NY, 12233-4752

Phone: (518) 402-8985.

8.3.19 Plan Ahead

Property owners and communities that have experienced problems in the past can expect geese to return again unless control measures are implemented. The best time to act is in late winter, before nesting begins, or as soon as geese show up where they are not wanted. If any permits are needed, allow plenty of lead time (45-60 days) for processing.

8.3.20 For More Information

If the techniques described in this document are unsuccessful, or if you need more information, contact USDA-Wildlife Services or any DEC regional wildlife office for assistance. USDA can provide information by phone or by mail and will conduct site visits in special problem situations. USDA also can provide control services on site under funded cooperative agreements (for a fee). For help in New York State, contact:

USDA APHIS - Wildlife Services

1930 Route 9

Castleton, NY 12033-9653

Phone: (518) 477-4837

Fax: (518) 477-4899

DEC also can provide technical advice and information, and refer individuals to licensed nuisance wildlife control specialists or material suppliers who can help. DEC generally does not provide field assistance to individual land owners with goose problems, but will work with local governments to help develop community-based management programs. For assistance, contact the DEC regional office listed in your local telephone directory.

Two excellent reference materials developed by Cornell Cooperative Extension are recommended: Suburban Goose Management : Searching for Balance (28 minute video); and Managing Canada Geese in Urban Environments: A Technical Guide (42 page manual). The video provides a general overview of techniques and issues to help communities begin developing an effective action plan. The manual provides additional details for selecting and implementing various techniques to reduce conflicts with resident geese. To order, contact the Department of Natural Resources, Room 108, Fernow Hall, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, phone (607) 255-2115.

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